Five years after a devastating fire gutted Notre-Dame Cathedral in Parispaypal casino sites, the medieval church will reopen this week with processions of hundreds of bishops, priests and deacons in new liturgical garb by the French designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.
“What do you think?” Mr. de Castelbajac asked during an interview at his Paris studio as he held up a chasuble, a poncho-like outer vestment that clerics wear for Mass. It is one of 2,000 items, including dalmatics, stoles and miters that Msgr. Laurent Ulrich, the archbishop of Paris, commissioned him to design for the three-day celebration. To execute the designs, Mr. de Castelbajac teamed with the French designer Gilles Rosier as project manager and 19M, the group of artisanal ateliers owned by Chanel, which includes Paloma couture, Lesage and Montex embroiderers, Goossens goldsmith and Maison Michel millinery.
The chasubles, Mr. de Castelbajac explained, are made by Paloma in Scottish broadcloth in a vanilla-white hue, “like the cathedral’s stone.” The fronts and backs bear a large, minimalist cross printed in antique gold, inspired by the Glorious Cross, a monumental altar piece the French sculptor Marc Couturier made for the cathedral in 1993. To apply the gold to the fabric, Lesage employed a heat transfer process known as sublimation, the same method used for affixing images on T-shirts.
“We put three layers to give the gold depth and catch the light,” Mr. de Castelbajac said as he ran his hand under the fabric to show off its muted shimmer.
The crosses are surrounded by a burst of shard-like patches in red, blue, yellow and green flocking, the felt-like material commonly used for sweatshirt lettering. Mr. de Castelbajac said the shards, which he cut and glued to the fabric himself, represented the cathedral’s stained glass windows and were arranged to recall “Radiant Baby,” an image by the pop artist Keith Haring of a crawling infant framed by rays of light. Mr. Haring, who died in 1990 from an AIDS-related illness, was a friend of Mr. de Castelbajac’s.
ImagePatches of red, blue, green and yellow flocking burst from a large gold cross on Mr. de Castelbajac’s vanilla-white broadcloth chasubles.Credit...Alix MarnatWe are having trouble retrieving the article content.
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